Some tastings stay with you long after the last glass has been poured. Last night's Champagne tasting was one of those evenings, made even more memorable by its setting amongst the extraordinary Zoomorphic Lounge exhibition, presented by Webb's. Surrounded by an exceptional private art collection, the wines seemed to take on another dimension, making for a truly unforgettable experience.
Our line-up celebrated the remarkable diversity of Champagne. We explored Grower Champagnes alongside the great Négociant houses, tasted Prestige Cuvées, compared Non-Vintage and Vintage expressions, and enjoyed the newly released Dom Pérignon 2017 before moving through exceptional vintages from 2013 and 2018. From Chardonnay-led wines to Pinot Noir-dominant styles, finishing with a stunning (and now sold out) rosé from Vilmart, every wine brought something unique to the conversation.
An Extraordinary Beginning – Dom Pérignon 2017
There could hardly have been a better way to begin the evening than with Dom Pérignon 2017. This is the smallest volume release in Dom Pérignon's modern history, composed of 61% Chardonnay and 39% Pinot Noir, with seven years on lees and a dosage of 5g/L.
The 2017 vintage produced exceptionally ripe Chardonnay, the ripest seen since 2002, giving the wine an immediate generosity while retaining the precision and elegance expected of Dom Pérignon. Already wonderfully approachable, it captivated the room from the very first pour.
Vilmart Rosé – Rich, Bold and Beautiful
The transition to Vilmart Rosé provided a striking contrast. Often affectionately described as offering a style reminiscent of Krug, it displayed generous richness, spice, toasted notes and vibrant red fruits with impressive breadth across the palate
Grower Champagne at Its Best
André Clouet Chalky, presented in its distinctive white bottle, surprised many. While André Clouet is best known for Pinot Noir from Bouzy, Chalky is an entirely different expression, crafted from 100% Chardonnay, offering remarkable purity and freshness.
Alongside it was Pascal Agrapart Le 7, a blend drawn from seven vineyards with Chardonnay making up around 90% of the wine. Agrapart continues to justify its cult status, producing wines of precision, energy and remarkable complexity that captivated many around the table.
The Classic 2013 Vintage
Our first vintage comparison focused on 2013, a year now recognised as one of Champagne's great modern classics.
A cool growing season and late harvest produced wines with exceptional acidity, balance and longevity. Many believe 2013 has the potential to outlive the celebrated 2012 vintage.
We began with Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2013, a classically crafted Pinot Noir-dominant Champagne showing elegance, restraint and beautiful structure.
It was followed by what many considered one of the wines of the evening: André Jacquart Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 2013.
Produced entirely from old-vine Chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the wine spent ten years on lees, underwent no malolactic fermentation, and was matured exclusively in three- to four-year-old Burgundian oak barrels before receiving just 4g/L dosage. The result was a Champagne of remarkable purity, precision and length—truly exceptional.
The evening concluded with two outstanding examples from 2018, a vintage we believe deserves serious attention from collectors.
Louis Roederer Vintage 2018 and Philipponnat Blanc de Blancs 2018 both displayed immense quality while also reminding us why patience is often rewarded in Champagne. These are wines built for the cellar, with concentration, structure and balance that promise even greater complexity over the coming years.
If there is one recent Champagne vintage worth buying in quantity, 2018 is certainly high on that list.
Champagne, Art and Great Company
Exceptional wines are always memorable, but sharing them with a full room of enthusiastic guests amongst one of New Zealand's finest private art collections made this tasting something truly special.
Thank you to everyone who joined us for an unforgettable evening.
We're already looking forward to our next Champagne tastings in Auckland and Wellington this September. We hope to see you there.
